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Q-KIPEDIA: Double-Breasted Jacket

by Alexis Fong October 03, 2017

Q-KIPEDIA: Double-Breasted Jacket

Kingsmen 2: Taron Egerton / 'Eggsy' wearing Double breasted jacket

BASIC GUIDE for Double Breasted suits:

For all styles, the lapels are always peaked and the jacket always buttoned, never left open. It is supposed to fit in a specific manner, snug around the hips and wide at the shoulders.  

 


Double Breasted Suit Details: Image from Black Lapel

Appriopriate Dressing

Given by its memorable nature, it could be a statement piece in your wardrobe. In terms of formality and functionality, it works the same way as a single breasted suit however, we would highly suggest to wear it on special occasions/ dressy events to show off your style and self-confidence. 

Suitable for :
Skinny, very lean build men. A double breasted Jacket gives more width to a slim torso. The button stance and the extra cloth add bulk.


History

Its originated from reefer jackets dated way back into the 18th century with six-on-three buttons. Later, the four buttoned configuration was introduced as shorter men found that version overwhelms their torso.
   Prior to World War II, single and double breasted suits sold in almost equal numbers. As the driving force behind tailored menswear in the twenties and thirties, the double breasted suit's most popular rendering was the six-on-two button front, with broad lapels marking a high waist and straight ventless tails hugging cylindrical hips. Long wide trousers supported this column like shape, serving as the base of an athletic silhouette that came to define masculine elegance throughout the period. 

 

Variations of Double Breasted Suit

The four types of classic double breasted jackets are determined by the number of buttons.

Type 1: "THE SIX-ON-ONE"

6x1 ButtonedSix Buttons, of which only the bottom right-hand side button is functional. This style, popularised by the Duke of Kent in the 1930s has a long rolled lapel and wider, lower gorge that exposes more of the shirt and tie. Some people think this creates a longer line that's flattering on shorter men.
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Type 2: "THE SIX-ON-TWO"

Kingsmen : 6x2 Buttoned6x2 ButtonedSix buttons, of which only the center and bottom right-hand side buttons are functional. Only the center is used; the lowest button is always left undone. Though this is the most traditional of double-breasted styles, its high, tight gorge looks crisp and modern.

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  Type 3: "THE SIX-ON-SIX"

6x6 ButtonedSix buttons, of which all three left-hand side buttons are functional. All buttons are usually done up, creating a very high, tight gorge. A rather military or naval style, it's most often found in traditional blazers with metal buttons; in suits, it floats in and out with fashion tide.

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Type 4: "THE FOUR-ON-ONE"

Four buttons, of which only the bottom right-hand side button is functional. Because the button stance is higher on the jacket than a six-button configuration, the gorge normally lies somewhere between the lower six-on-one and the higher six-on-two.

 

 

 Till next time, signing out with a quote from tom ford,





Alexis Fong
Alexis Fong

Author


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Sizing Chart
SHIRT SIZING

Size

Chest (Shirt) Chest (Body) Collar Shoulder Sleeve Length
46 40" / 102cm 36" / 91cm 15" / 38cm 17" / 43cm 25" / 63.5cm 28.5" / 72cm
48 42" / 107cm 38" / 96.5cm 15.5" / 39.5cm 17.5" / 44.5cm 25.5" / 65cm 29" / 73.5cm
50 44" / 112cm 40" / 102cm 16" / 40.5cm 18" / 45.5cm 26" / 66cm 29.5" / 75cm
52 46" / 117cm 42" / 107cm 16.5" / 42cm 18.5" / 47cm 26.5" / 67.3cm 30" / 76cm
54 48" / 122cm 44" / 112cm 17" / 43.2cm 19" / 48cm 27" / 68.5cm 30.5" / 77.5cm
56 50" / 127cm 46" / 117cm 17.5" / 44.5cm 19.5" / 49.5cm 27.5" / 70cm 31" / 78.5cm