January 30, 2018

Have you wondered whats in the basic construction of your jacket?


Image: Montagio Custom Tailoring Australia.
Fully canvassed- 
Horse hair on the lapels from the chest to the hem.  
Right: Half canvassed-
Iron fused lapels with horse hairs stitched onto the chest and fused with iron from chest to hem.
The main difference would be the length of hand-stitched horsehair between the two suits and the lapels.


Traditionally, men’s suits were constructed with a layer of horsehair canvas underneath the wool fabric shell. This canvas holds the shape of the suit and keeps it from sagging or deforming giving the jacket a skeleton to retain its shape.The canvas is cut to the jacket’s shape, then the wool is hand-stitched to the canvas. Over time, as you wear the jacket, the canvas conforms to your body’s shape, creating an excellent fit.

The canvas lining allows the suit fabric to drape naturally, allowing a clean, well put-together look. It is the more expensive option as more handwork is involved.






Half-canvassed jackets have several benefits. First, they generally have a lower price than a similar fully canvassed jacket. Less handiwork means a lower overall cost to you.And because the top half of the jacket is not fused you’ll not run into any bubbling problems as you might in a fused jacket. This adds to the lifespan of the garment.Many suit manufacturers, as an effect of increased production, no longer use a canvas interlining in their jackets. Rather, a fusible interlining is glued to the wool shell of the suit. Though with the extreme transformation of technology, fusing fabrics together is no longer a blasphemy and is quite common in tailoring now.   

Pinch Test

First, pinch the fabric on the sleeve of the jacket to get a feel for the wool’s thickness (sleeves are not canvassed). Then, pinch the cloth below the bottom buttonhole from both the inside and out. Gently pull the layers apart. If you feel a third layer inside, then the coat is fully canvassed.The pinch test is an excellent way to determine whether a jacket is canvassed or fused.

If you don’t feel a third layer, or the fabric feels stiffer and thicker than that of the sleeve, the jacket is more than likely fused.


The lining in your suit jacket adds structure and weight to your suit. A fully-lined suit jacket is heavier, warmer and has a thicker look to it. Half-lined and Unlined would be good for summer suit jacket.

There are three types of lining style you can choose in a jacket construction.
  1. Fully Lined

    It is best for durability - having a lining is giving more protection to the jacket. The layer of fabric will prevent the jacket from wear and tear in the long run. It is very useful for colder countries as well as lining do trap heat. It would be good to have a lining the jacket is intended to be worn many times. Other than durability, usually lined jackets have more allowance on the inside as the lining is used to cover up the seams. Adjustments will be better for lined jackets as there will be more material to extend out if needed.


  2. Half-Lined

    It is best for tropical countries like Singapore or summertime in other countries. This is the best choice for customer who wants breathability at the same time some structure to the jacket. Less lining will result in a lighter jacket and less constriction of airflow. The lining will only cover the upper torso and the sleeves of the jacket. Tidbit: There is actually more workmanship involved in a half-lined comparatively to a lined jacket. Reason being, the seams needs to be neatly finished when there are no lining covering up the bottom half. 

  3. Unlind

    The most breathable jacket style amongst all three types. It has a more casual, calmer look. It has the least structure as there is no layer inside to keep the shape of jacket. People often goes to Unlined Jacket for a more summer casual look when choosing materials such as Linen, Cotton etc. It has the most finishing workmanship even though it is meant to be a casual look. All the seams have to be finished properly, binded at every edge as there is no layer to cover up the outer jacket. It is a wonderful look for people who are seeking to expand their wardrobe. I will not suggest unlind as a first jacket as there is very minimum allowance in the jacket in the room for adjustments. Regular customer who has done tailoring before will be more comfortable with this as the fit has been fine-tuned by their tailors. 



With this, I end with a quote from Marc Jacobs,


    Sizing Chart


    Chest (Shirt) Chest (Body) Collar Shoulder Sleeve Length
    46 40" / 102cm 36" / 91cm 15" / 38cm 17" / 43cm 25" / 63.5cm 28.5" / 72cm
    48 42" / 107cm 38" / 96.5cm 15.5" / 39.5cm 17.5" / 44.5cm 25.5" / 65cm 29" / 73.5cm
    50 44" / 112cm 40" / 102cm 16" / 40.5cm 18" / 45.5cm 26" / 66cm 29.5" / 75cm
    52 46" / 117cm 42" / 107cm 16.5" / 42cm 18.5" / 47cm 26.5" / 67.3cm 30" / 76cm
    54 48" / 122cm 44" / 112cm 17" / 43.2cm 19" / 48cm 27" / 68.5cm 30.5" / 77.5cm
    56 50" / 127cm 46" / 117cm 17.5" / 44.5cm 19.5" / 49.5cm 27.5" / 70cm 31" / 78.5cm